This morning Gerardo cooked us breakfast and we ate and chatted with him, Debora, and Juanita, another guest and Debora's friend. Juanita, originally from San Francisco, lives in San Ignacio in a big, blue historical home which also serves as a hotel. Wish we had known that when we had stayed in San Ignacio a few nights ago, but maybe next time! After saying our goodbyes, we rode away under a very warm sun headed for Bahia Concepcion, determined to find Bertha's. It was an easy find this time. We realized why we had missed it was because there was road construction and the trucks and machinery blocked our view of the beach and Bertha's below. What a delightful place! Carol and I ordered margaritas, Steve a beer, and Ryaan, water. The guys tasted our margs and we all agreed it was probably the best - but it did score extra points because of the ambiance. The chips and salsa were excellent, too. We left Bertha's and rode to Mulege to find the "beach" at the end of a long, dirt, rutted road. We could really see the effect of the last hurricane with all the downed trees next to the river along this road. We reached the end and met Travis, the American owner of La Casa de Villa restaurant bar at the end of the road. We sat on his pontoon boat as he told us about the hurricane's devastation and how the river we were floating on used to not be there before the hurricane. It used to be the road to the lighthouse that they could no longer access. It was very pleasant sitting on the boat and listening to him talk about life in Mulege, but it was time to move on down the road. We left Mulege and rode towards San Rosalia where we ate lunch at a little restaurant in town. We passed another military checkpoint and, once again, they quickly looked through our bags. We noticed on the way down that they were stopping more cars headed north than south and we think the reason is because of the boat traffic in southern Baja. They need to be sure we aren't transporting drugs brought in by boat. After Santa Rosalia, we had to say goodbye to the Sea of Cortez for a few days as we headed back into the mountains. It was still very warm and tank tops and sunscreen were the dress code. We stopped at a gas station in the middle of nowhere and met the family who lives there - father, mother, and 2 sons. They had a dog who had 4 puppies about 6 weeks old that were the cutest little things. The mom dog seemed really hungry, so Steve gave her a Power Bar and she quickly devoured it. She was a sweet, well-trained dog, just matted and dirty. As we were leaving, the boys asked us if we wanted to take the puppies (perroitas) with us. We were all really tempted, but we had no room.We had another military checkpoint, but this time we were just waved on. The temperatures were really dropping and the winds were worsening and by the time we got to Guererro Negro, we were freezing, even though we did put jackets on along the way. We found a cute little hotel, the Malarrimo, which has its own restaurant and bar, but they only had heavy dinners and after the big lunch we had, we just wanted something small. So we braved the cold and the winds, and wandered down the street to a little restaurant we stopped at heading south. After chicken tacos, soup, quesadillas, and fajitas, we walked back to the hotel, had a nightcap at the bar, and went to bed. Tomorrow is 265 miles to San Quintin.
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